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FEATURES:

  • Medium performance "budget friendly"  MCPCB designed for up to 50 reliable watt from 36x Nichia 757 LED family. (Max. 60 watt)
  • Thick 2mm aluminum base for versatile mounting options without compromising LED integrity.
  • 4x 2,5mm holes with spacious clear side margin for easy countersinking and tapping (to fit M3 screws) when required. 
  • Reflective white solder mask for higher output.
  • Designed and optimised for all Nichia 757 (3030 mid power) family.
  • Works with 1pc or up to 36pcs LED.
  • Series or paraller configuration can be selected by simply opening/closing the jumper pads using manual soldering iron on the spot. All without having to reorient the LEDs polarity

 

TECHNICAL DETAILS:

  • MCPCB metal substrate: aluminum
  • MCPCB thickness (metal substrate only): 2mm (+/- 0,1mm)
  • Dielectric thickness: 100μm (+/- 10μm)
  • Dielectric thermal conductivity: 3 W/MK
  • Copper trace thickness: 2 Oz
  • MCPCB dimension: 35mm x 35mm (+/- 0,2mm)
  • Pads surface finish: HASL (SAC305)
  • LEDs pitch spacing: 0,4mm
  • Configuration options: 3S12P or 36P (open/close the jumper pads with solder to switch between confgurations)
  • extra boost pads to lower voltage and cooler running in high current setup (>2A)

VS35SP36

$1.00Price
  • You can solder this MCPCB with almost any common solder paste, as long as it contains active flux (no expired). HASL surface finish makes solder wet readily on it. Sn63Pb37 or Sn96,5Ag3Cu0,5 works best.

    The correct and easiest method to apply solder paste is to use solder paste stencil. Although you can get away with solder wires, it's a mess to work with and dosing would not be accurate (larger pads will hold more solder). I have found the best stecil dimension for my application using laser cut 0,15mm thick polyimide sheet. You can download the DXF file here.

    Adjust the aperture size according to your preferred stencil thickness. Thicker stencil requires smaller aperture area. Never use the "tapping" method to solder Nichia 757 on this MCPCB. It's a bad practice and should never be used anyway. Tapping will only make the excess solder balls to short circuit neighboring LEDs. Almost all 757 Nichias have exposed contact points at their four sides, solder balls will cling to it.

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